Chateau Marmot: a British affair at Beehive Place by Sam Hodges

Living in Brixton has been nothing short of an extraordinary experience. Nine years ago there was nothing to shout about the area. A few local places to eat and drink that were acceptable and some not so much. Things have changed beyond recognition with the inevitable touches of gentrification that comes with evolution and regeneration.

Brixton  has become a foodie destination, rather the tube station getaway into town. My next adventure took place very near the station, easy to find in a narrow, empty street around the corner from the buzzing  market street.  We found ourselves in front of a bright yellow door and a very welcoming front of the house greeting  guests. 

We arrived at Beehive Place Kitchen and Bar, where British chef Sam Hodges and Chateau Marmot are having a busy pop-up.  Beehive Place is an old spacious Victorian hay loft with Jessica Albarn whose wonderful work covering one wall. Mismatching tables and chairs, bare brickwork, grey painted plastered wall and wood panelling.

making cocktails at Beehive Place

 This pop-up  is a joint force between highly praised  temporary restaurant Chateau Marmot and inspiring chef Sam Hodges, whose impressive CV includes St John and Soho House.  The menu is a very British affair. They’re have created a series of one-off dining experiences between November 2014 and March 2015,  with a fully licensed bar serving signature cocktails, craft beers and wines from independent suppliers.

bar area

Above: bar area and  a-beery-cano cocktail (£8): a British take on classic Americano, Blackdown gin, homemade blackberry and lavender shrub, Kamm & Son’s (aperitif,45 natural botanicals) topped with English Sparkling wine.

Hot crab apple toddy (£7),  Lambs Navy rum, dry cider, crab apple, London honey, pickleback (pickle brine), spices, served warm,  very delicious!

The cocktail menu (£7-£8/cocktail)  features innovative and very creative concoctions
including infusions, wild and  forage elements. Spirits and very local craft beers (draught and bottled) are available as well as soft drinks.  They have researched the
length and breath of the country to find small, ethical, sustainable and niche suppliers to both the bar and restaurant. The
food  menu varies every week, so it’s always a surprise in store.

 The meal

we started with a small pot of very hot to handle  roasted chestnuts from Kent followed by Pine fired Cornish plumb mussels in cider and for the non-seafood eater a basked of fried salsify, an acquired taste.
The eating area
The second course was organic venison & juniper sausage from Devon, Norfolk cauliflower, wild rosemary flowers and a wonderful sweet and sticky venison reduction with walnuts. That was seeved wth Colacino Savuto Rosso, a red Italian wine from Calabria, an intense  and concentrated ruby red with cherry notes and blackberry on the nose, slightly anise on the finish. Very appetising course.

above: Sam Hodges in action

 The third course: was a delightful salted baked beetroot from Suffolk, cow’s curd, a tasty garlic grass and olive oil sauce, and grated horseradish from Sussex.  Simple and very flavoursome. The wine match was South African, Franschhoek Cellar Semillon, a fresh, pale gold and citrousy and peachy white wine. Smooth and lengthy on the palate

 The fourth course: a rich densely-textured, but very tender and juicy meat goose breast from Bedfordshire that was cooked to perfection!  Potato, Norfolk Jerusalem artichoke, a sweet and tangy Devonshire cranberry sauce and goosefoot (green foliage). My favourite dish  of the evening.  Wine pairing was Willunga 100, 2013 from Australia, a Grenache bright red, light body and fine tannings. It was spicy with raspberry aroma. 


Dessert: Blickling pear (dessert pear) white, slightly gritty, coarse, juicy flesh with a very sweet flavour, it was served warm, it was a bit hard  but the taste was lovely, topped with Kentish cobnut crumble, and a creamy textured and sweet-nutty to the palate clotted cream ice cream. Wine pairing: Rialto, a sweet  aromatic and soft Moscato from Veneto, Italy. The Dessert was nice and not too heavy – Perfect finish, if you like pears.
I attended a previous Chateau Marmot dining experience last year and enjoyed immensely, you can read about it here,  so I was looking forward to the Brixton dates and again it didn’t disappoint.
 
This pop up finishes in March 2015 – don’t delay and get a ticket for next year as they are almost fully booked this year! 

Cost : dinner of 5 coursers at £35, wine flight from £23, cocktails from £7. Other beverages were available to purchased on the night at very reasonable prices. Highly  recommended.

Disclosure: I was a guest of Chateau Marmot, all opinions are my own. 

For more info: Chateau Marmot

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1 Comment

  1. Anonymous
    December 14, 2014 / 6:35 pm

    This pop up looks amazing! Local produce is always a good idea.