France, Aveyron: Belcastel, Villefranche & Conques

view of the village from Le Château de Belcastel

I am back in France; it seems that I can’t keep away from this country. Can you blame me? The place is dotted by fairytale villages with beautiful period castles, majestic cathedrals and medieval stoned bridges. Aveyron is a department located in the north-east of the Midi-Pyrenees region of southern France named after the Aveyron River. 

Aveyron – map

Belcastel

Belcastel is a picture perfect medieval postcard village with cobbled streets and stone tiled houses. There’s a sense of tranquillity; it was beginning of October, I was told in the Summer the place is hiving.  March to May and September to November are  the times to come to Belcastel. There are various activities during the Summer months, from Village Fete where Belcastel all comes alive for the community feast, fireworks, light show, treasure hunt at Easter; music events as several scenes from operas will be presented. The present owners are gallery owners and they hold exhibitions of sculpture and paintings at  the Château de Belcastel.
             

Château de Belcastel

At the beginning of the 20th century, it wasn’t  possible to access Belcastel as it was surrounded by intricate and overgrown paths. The  discovery of the steep rock that dominated the poorly conditioned houses of the village and the remains of the still formidable castle completely ruined was the turning point to the local community.

Belcastel Village

Villefranche-de-Rouergue

Villefranche-de-Rouergue : The Place Notre-Dame, the central square is dominated by huge crucifix ironwork and is without any doubt one of Villefranche de Rouergue’s landmarks – On Thursday morning market takes place.

 The lovely local speciality Gâteau à la broche de l’Aveyron –  made of lots of eggs, flour, sugar, rum, orange blossom water and orange zest.  ‘baked’ over coal in a spit that turns as you pour the batter. Excellent!

Villefranche-de-Rouergue : Notre Dame Cathedral

The cathedral’s construction began in 1252 and lasted three centuries! The impressive 58m high bell-tower was completed in 1589 and has a
special and unique feature: the arched porch is open on four sides and
spans the street.

Villefranche

Le Chartreuse in Villefranche

Le Chartreuse in Villefranche

where to stay and eat in Villefranche

Les Fleurines *** is very adequate and clean accommodation near the centre of the city, modern with some quirky character. I loved the shower in this hotel quite roomy and power  shower. Fresh croissant and Nespresso available at the breakfast buffet, double room starts at €83/room. follow them on twitter: @Lesfleurines 

 Lunch at Villefranche

chef Cedric Teissedre serving aligot at Le Glacier

Aligot and steak

very satisfying tarte aux pomme with salted caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream for good measure!

Dinner at L’Epicurien

L’Epicurien was walking distance from our hotel, about 10 minutes passing through the city centre. It has no curb appeal, but what lacks in the deco department makes up on the tasty food and the nice welcoming service. The dishes were very creative and very well executed.  The best meal of this leg of the trip.

wine was the local, well next door neighbour,  Gaillac –  richly coloured, spice-scented, round red wine matched perfectly well with my duck.  amuse–bouche: goats cheese mousse with prune marmalade  at the bottom of that glass  – incredible!

my dish: fried polenta with a slightly crust, duck with fig butter – that gave the meat a slightly sweetness, creme noisette, local vegetables – absolutely gorgeous and very filling dish.  The fish dish looked amazing too.

 The vegetarian dish: duck egg cooked sous vide with a black truffle gravy, two types of potato (chips and cake) and a tomato and onion bruschetta topped with local hard cheese Laguiole- I was told it was excellent.

 little red berries ‘crumble’ dotted by mango and berries jus – so pretty

the selection of cheeses: an unexpected presention goats cheese mousse, cheese wrapped in bacon, local cheese with confit and a very good looking toast – very pleasing plate

a trio of desserts: petit gateau, raspberries sorbet on peaches  and roll of filled with light cream – orange blossom and nuts

Conques

Conques  Conques, the name derives from the Latin “concha” meaning shell,  is situated in a remote creek, shaped like a shell and enclosed by steep rocky crags. It was here that the hermit Dadon chose to withdraw from the world to live a life of religious contemplation. Thus was born the Benedictine monastery, founded in the 8th century.             Beautiful and calm medieval village, possibly the most beautiful (in my eyes) community in France.  In the Summer, this 92 inhabitants village,  turns into a pilgrimage route and rest point with auberges and infrastructure to accommodate the pilgrims, it’s one of the most famous routes to Santiago de Compostela.  The new windows in the abbey, designed by Pierre Soulages, are in harmony with and serve to enhance the austerity of the romanesque setting.   the reliquics beautiful village of Conques A waterfall in the middle of Salles la Source Village – Idyllic!  we were on the way to Rodez on the way to Rodez Disclosure: I was a guest of Aveyron Tourism Board . All views are my own. I retained, as always,  full editorial control over this review.